E.K Francis, magpie, jewellery maker

Emma-Kate Francis discusses Silversmithing and her jewellery business

A self-confessed magpie, Emma-Kate Francis has loved making jewellery since she was 15. Her passion for shiny things led her to do a MA in silversmithing at the Royal College of Art in London, which she completed in 2002. Since then she has set up her own Boutique Gallery in Pontcanna, Cardiff and sells her unique pieces online. Here she explains how to get into the business and what she really thinks about the term ‘craft’.

How did you become interested in jewellery making?

“I've always loved making things and got really inspired by my art teacher during my GCSEs. She let me use her personal equipment to make and design my own collection for the first time and it was published in the local paper.”

What’s the philosophy behind your work?

“I wouldn’t make it, if I wouldn’t wear it. You have to be honest with yourself and your clients, especially when they’re investing time and money in you to create that perfect piece.” 

What is your favourite material to work with?

“I’m biased towards metal so it has to be silver. I love the way you can work it and I do love the colour. I’m a true magpie.”

Of the pieces you’ve made, which is your favourite?

“I love my ‘Strut’ ring, a huge oval amethyst set in platinum with a pave diamond set on the ‘struts’. A client in London had just got divorced and had brought the amethyst back from her travels. To celebrate we came up with a ring that would get her noticed. She loved the name and I came up with the idea from the architectural term. Struts help brace the parts and that’s exactly what the setting is doing, it’s functional and aesthetically looks cool.”

Where do you turn for inspiration?

“The whole of the world wide web is an inspiration. I love architecture, just walking down the street and looking at doorways inspires me. Rome is great for that. I love fluidity in design and the Art Nouveau and Bauhaus movements provide true inspiration. A trip to the seaside does wonders for clearing the head. Working at the bench can be insulating so getting out and exploring helps.”

Which jewellery makers inspire you?

“I used to work for a company called Dower and Hall in London. They were a husband and wife team who started out small and have grown a mini empire internationally. Their dedication to the job is astounding. I admire their passion and drive.”

Has the British ‘craft scene’ been getting more popular?

“Difficult question as I can’t stand the word ‘craft’. It conjures up straw dollies and quaint market stalls to many peoples minds. With the shows I have done recently many of the visitors remark on the high standard of ‘craft’ there and I have to agree. There’s a growing number of designer makers out there and a lot of stiff competition. I believe there has been an increase in places selling designer and craft items so this must show an increase in the number of investors.”

What advice would you give someone who wants to make and sell jewellery professionally?

“It’s hard work on your own so get advice from bodies like the British Jewellers’ Association and Goldsmith’s Hall. Go on as many courses as you can and network loads. You have to be designer/maker/marketing manager/graphic designer/ accountant/admin assistant and so on. Also create your own identity and style and make it as unique and different as possible to stand out from the crowds of jewellers out there.”

Where can people buy your work?

“They can see a few of my ranges online and if they wish to purchase then they can contact me directly. I've recently opened up my own studio and gallery in the heart of Pontcanna, Cardiff so I get people dropping by to browse. I do a lot of bespoke work, often through word of mouth, which is still one of the strongest forms of marketing. I enjoy it as I get to develop something really special and unique for my clients. There is a stockist in London too. Sarah May Jewellers, in Richmond, which is great. I've had a few problems with galleries and you really have to build a rapport with them to sell your work, which can take a while.

by Charlotte Clark

How 2 make your own Fimo jewellery

If you’ve never made your own jewellery before, starting with silver and gold can be expensive.

However, polymer clay can be a great way to learn and bring your design ideas to life.

As a material polymer clay is versatile. Commonly used in beads, it’s also used in model making.

Once moulded the beads are baked until hard. Start by choosing how long you want your necklace add eight centimetres (this makes it easier to tie) and measure out some leather thong or jewellery wire that length.

Jewellery maker Emma-Kate Francis suggests you try adding a bit of sparkle to your beads. You can do this either by buying polymer clay with glitter in it or experiment by pushing gems into the clay.

At high temperatures gems may melt so try gluing them on afterwards. Here are three simple beads anyone can make.

Simple beads

1: Roll small pieces of clay into balls in your hands.

2: Use the same amount of clay for each to get an even finish.

3: Poke a hole in the centre of each with a cocktail stick.

4: Bake in the over according to instructions.

5: These can be used to separate larger beads in a necklace.

Rose beads


1: Roll the clay into one thin, even layer.

2: Cut this is into 2 centimetre wide strips.

3: Roll the clay strips up carefully leaving on side slightly open to make a rose effect.

4: Sit the closed end down on the desk to flatten it.

5: Using a cocktail stick poke a hole through the side of bead.

6: Make more depending on the length of the necklace you want.
7: Press the sides of each bead together so you end up with a long row.

8: Bake in the oven according to the instructions.

9: Thread onto your chosen necklace.

Top tip: These beads don’t always sit flat so make enough to go all the way round your neck and then bake them stuck together in the curve you want ready to be hung from the chain.

Marbled beads

1: Choose two contrasting clay colours.

2: Roll the two together in your hands to form balls. This should create a marbled effect.

3: Either leave the balls as they are or flatten them slightly as you roll them, to elongate them.

4: Flatten the ends on the desk.

5: Push the cocktail stick through the length of the bead.

6: Bake in the over according to instructions.

Top tip: Use contrasting shades of the same colour for a striking look. The more you roll them the more the colours merge into one.